So, I spent a few days in Paris by walking, biking and taking Metro. I’ll admit, I had some trepidation before visiting Paris. Part of me realized the stereotypes of rude Parisians toward foreigners and their refusal to speak English. But part of me was excited to try out all the new bike infrastructure under mayor Anne Hildago's leadership. Plus, despite some of the negative stereotypes of Parisians, it's Paris!
Prior to traveling to Paris, I started studying some French to hopefully get me by.
“L’addition s’il vous plait”
“Excusez-moi”
“Merci beaucoup”
"Bonjour"
And of course “les toilettes?”
I couldn’t quite learn how to say “tap water” in French so I just said “tap water” in English and hoped they didn’t pretend to not understand and instead bring me an expensive bottle of water.
My Eurostar train arrived from London at Gare du Nord (Paris Nord). Prior to leaving for Paris, I used Google Maps to figure out what trains to take from Gare du Nord to my hotel. Then I clicked on the station name and viewed several photos of the station platform so I knew what to look for when I arrived. So before I arrived to Gare du Nord, I knew I had to take the Magenta E line and the direction I was heading. Technology sometimes really is a life saver.
Paris is an amazing city and the people surprised me. The people were kinder than I thought.
I was only there for a few days and I knew I wanted to ride a bike one of those days. Since I didn’t pay for pocket wifi, I couldn’t rent a bike share from Velib. Instead, I rented a bike from Holland Bikes near Opera Garnier.
I just randomly cycled around with very little agenda. I wanted to get lost and explore. I used an app called Maps.Me, where I was able to use GPS to guide me back to my hotel without cellular or wifi service (NOTE: Prior to using Maps.Me, you’ll need to download the map of the city you’re in and will need cellular or wifi service to download the maps).
(Photos from upper left to bottom right: A woman cycling in front of Cafe Lola, random Parisian cafe, a man cycling in a Parisian neighborhood, a residential street, a gate that allows pedestrians and bikes only, a woman cycling down a residential street with a neighborhood bakery in the background)
I rode down Champs Elysee on a very bumpy brick street with some concrete protection between the traffic lanes and the bike lanes. Once I got to Arc de Triomphe, the bike lane disappeared and you’re thrown into this huge roundabout with lots of tour buses, taxis and private vehicles. It was a little hair raising, but my experience riding through Los Angeles helped me deal with the chaos. The roundabout at Arc de Triomphe has no lane markings; drivers and tour buses were jostling to get from where they are, to where they need to go. And then there’s me on my bike trying to avoid them.
I rode along the Seine with lots of people walking, jogging, biking, doing yoga, and just lounging around. I shortly realized that the road I was on used to be for cars! I’m so glad they repurposed that street, because it was much more enjoyable watching people doing yoga and jogging than seeing and hearing cars.
Overall, I did not feel my life was in any real danger while cycling in Paris. Also, some of the bike lanes are wider than car lanes! There was even a section, I think near the Louvre, where private vehicles and buses shared a narrow lane next to a protected bike lane that was wider. It was strange, but I’m not complaining.
In addition to riding, I got lost by walking and taking the Metro. Paris is such an amazing walking city. I found some of the most charming neighborhoods just by wondering around and deciding to take a right versus going straight. And coming from the States, the Paris Metro system is so efficient. There were several times where I would walk down to the station and just missed the train. But, it wasn't a big deal because another one would usually arrive within 2-4minutes!
And for me, no visit would be complete without visiting cafes where the likes of Piccaso and Hemingway once sipped coffee.
I quickly embraced the Parisian cafe “culture”. I enjoyed grabbing a latte and sitting outside people watching. I babied that latte until it turned cold watching the city go by and had a great time. But what is strange for me is some of these cafes look very opulent and could pass for a fancy restaurant in the States. And yet I can just get a cup of coffee and sit there for an hour or more. I saw a couple share a Pelligrino at Les Duex Magots and just sat there for at least 30min before ordering a cup of tea. I was at Garnier Cafe and ordered an espresso and creme brulee (photo above) while patrons next to me were feasting on a seafood platter. I feel like I should be ordering more when I’m at a French cafe, but I guess it’s perfectly acceptable to just order a cup of tea while patrons in the next table have escargot?
My time in Paris was too short. I wasn't sure if I would like the city, and I was surprised that I did like it. Although I probably won't be back anytime soon, when I do go back, I will look at cycling further out of the city center, and even do some touristy stuff like going all the way up the Eiffel Tower.
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